Nick Knight: Shattering Boundaries and Defining Visual Artistry for Almost Half a Century

In the world of photography, it is challenging to find anyone more influential than Nick Knight. At 64 years old, Knight is a British "image-maker" and the founder and director of SHOWstudio. Throughout his career, he has garnered numerous awards, including the prestigious Isabella Blow Award. Although Knight is primarily recognized for his exceptional photography, he has also made significant contributions to various exhibitions and an extensive collection of short films.

Knight was born in Hammersmith, West London, and later pursued his studies in photography at the Bournemouth and Poole College of Art and Design. At the age of 24, he published his debut book, titled "Skinhead." The book encompasses written and visual portrayals that reflect the style, music, and conduct of members of the skinhead movement at the time.

 In the year 2000, Knight started SHOWstudio, a renowned fashion website praised as the "home of fashion film," recognized for its advancements in AI and 3D technologies, including the world's first-ever AI fashion editor, Ebury Grace. Much of Knight's work explores surrealism and controversial issues including homophobia, racism, and disability, topics he still challenges the conventional ideals of to this day.

He is most well-known for directing music videos such as Ye's "Bound 2" and Lady Gaga's "Born This Way", the latter of which he has worked with for almost 15 years. 

One of his closest collaborators was the legendary Alexander McQueen, with whom he collaborated on the first-ever live-streamed fashion show titled "Plato's Atlantis". They also partnered on a series of highly sought-after covers for The Face in 1998. Following McQueen's death, Knight created the film "To Lee, With Love, Nick". Reflecting on the film, Knight said 'This film is my way of speaking about a very unique and important person who changed my life. My desire was to speak in some way about the dark and the light contained within Lee and within us all.' Knight first premiered the film at the British Fashion Awards in late 2010 but it is now available for viewing on YouTube or SHOWstudio.com. The film showcases many of McQueen's most iconic pieces, styled by Edward Enninful, and features a soundtrack composed by Bjork. Describing the soundtrack, Exclaim magazine states, "Björk's song is the perfect accompaniment to the dramatic video, bringing together chilling blasts of horns and stark, dramatic vocals".

Nick Knight's influence in the world of photography is unparalleled. From his early beginnings as a student to his groundbreaking work at SHOWstudio, Knight has continuously pushed the boundaries of artistic expression. Through his exceptional photography, thought-provoking exhibitions, and captivating short films, he has left an undeniable mark on the industry. Knight's collaborations with notable figures like Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga have further solidified his position as a visionary image-maker. His ability to challenge societal norms and address controversial issues with his art demonstrates his unwavering dedication to pushing the boundaries of convention. With his remarkable career spanning almost half a century, Nick Knight's contributions to the world of visual arts will continue to inspire and shape the industry for years to come.

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Unveiling the Dance of Fashion with Saul Nash

Yesterday, Saul Nash, an alumnus of the Royal College of Arts and Central Saint Martins, concluded London Fashion Week with his steamy SS24 collection showcased at the Institute of Contemporary Arts. Drawing from his Caribbean heritage and London upbringing, as well as his dance background, the acclaimed Woolmark prize winner crafted a compelling collection that seamlessly blends urban and coastal aesthetics, form and functionality, and sportswear and swimwear.

Saul Nash, 29, was born in North-East London to Caribbean and Indo-Mauritian parents. From a young age, Nash was drawn to dance, and as he grew older, he delved into various disciplines, including sewing and drawing. Initially, Nash pursued a degree in Performance Design and Practice at Central Saint Martins in 2015. However, he later received a scholarship to study MA Menswear at the Royal College of Art, graduating in 2018, which marked the beginning of his eponymous label. Over the past three years alone, Nash has garnered recognition through several prestigious awards in the fashion industry. These include winning the International Woolmark Prize, receiving the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, and being named a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize.

Much of Nash's work delves into sexuality, heritage, movement, form, and masculinity. His most celebrated collection is 'Twist', presented as a short film. Twist tells the story of a group of young men initially engaging in confrontational gestures, facing each other with intensity. However, the twist in the film's narrative lies not in the boys brandishing knives or guns, but rather in the embrace of the two group leaders, sharing a long, delicate, and beautiful kiss.

Nash perfectly captures the essence of the collection and film, stating "Often, when you see men in groups, there’s a preconceived idea of what you think of them. You don’t ever see the nuances and the in-betweens. So I wanted to evoke this twist in the film, where you expect one thing about these people, but through watching the film further, your ideas about them are completely lifted,”. Additionally, Nash expresses, "There’s been a lot of men around me who have subverted my idea of what they would think of my sexuality.” A sentiment likely to resonate with and be understood by many gay men.

With every collection, Saul Nash draws more attention towards the next generation of young British talent and moulds the future of fashion, beckoning us all to embrace the unexpected and rejoice in the variety of the human experience. As we bid farewell to another extraordinary London Fashion Week, we can only await the next chapter in Saul Nash's remarkable journey.

Giggs turns 40: Celebrating the life and career of one of the UK’s most successful rappers

Today, we celebrate the 40th birthday of one of the UK's most successful and influential rappers, Nathaniel Thompson, better known as Giggs/Hollowman. Born in Peckham, London, Giggs has been active in the music industry since the mid-2000s, when he released one of his most notable mixtapes, "Hollowman Meets Blade".

Giggs' debut studio album, "Walk in the Park", was released in 2008 and was met with critical acclaim. Since then, he has released several successful albums and mixtapes, including "Landlord" in 2016, which charted at no. 2 in the UK albums chart, the highest charting album of his career.

Although he has dabbled in grime, Giggs primarily makes road rap, and his music is often praised for its raw emotion and honesty which has earned him a loyal fanbase over the years. His most successful song is 2007's "Talkin' The Hardest", often referred to as the unofficial national anthem of the UK. 

Giggs' stage name is derived from his childhood nickname of Giggler, which is a testament to his fun-loving personality. Over the years, he has won several awards, including a MOBO and a BET award, which is a testament to his talent and hard work.

As Giggs turns 40 today, we celebrate his talent and his contributions to the music industry and the impact he has had on the UK scene. His unique sound and style have inspired many artists and young people such as myself, and his music continues to resonate with fans around the world.

Happy birthday, Giggs! Here's to many more years of success and great music.

Sustainability meets Sportswear: Ding Yun Zhang x adidas

Dingyun Zhang, the fashion designer known for his innovative and sustainable designs, recently took to Instagram to tease a collaboration with sportswear giant adidas. The designer, who previously worked with Ye at YEEZY and helped design the YEEZY 700 Wave Runner, posted an Instagram story featuring an adidas shoebox with his eponymous label's branding alongside the adidas trefoil logo.

The collaboration with adidas is not entirely unexpected, as both Dingyun Zhang and adidas have previously collaborated with Moncler Genius. The Moncler Genius collaborations have resulted in some of the most innovative and exciting fashion designs in recent years and the collaboration between Dingyun Zhang and adidas has the potential to do just the same.

Zhang is a graduate of Central Saint Martins, one of the best fashion universities in the world. He has been making waves in the fashion industry with sustainable and functional designs prioritising long-term comfort and functionality. His manifesto is "a theoretical bond of sustainable ideas about long-term comfort, materials, and functionality."

Fashionlover4, my favourite YouTuber, has an excellent video that explores Dingyun Zhang's approach to fashion design which you can find here.

As one of the biggest players in the sportswear industry, adidas has a long history of collaborating with designers to create cutting-edge designs that push the boundaries of fashion and function. The collaboration with Zhang has the potential to be something truly exciting, and fans of the designer are eagerly anticipating its release.

Dingyun Zhang's collaboration with Adidas is sure to be one of the most talked-about fashion collaborations of the year. With the designer's focus on sustainability and functionality and Adidas' reputation for pushing the boundaries of sportswear design, this collaboration is sure to result in some truly innovative and exciting products. I can't wait to see what Zhang and Adidas have in store for us!

5 Visionary Designers You Need to Know

 As someone interested in fashion, design, and art, it’s always exciting to come across new talents and inspiring individuals whose work stands out. In this post, I want to share with you my 5 current favourite designers, from interdisciplinary artists to patch makers to futuristic fashion designers.

Yaz Exall

Yaz Exall is an interdisciplinary artist based between East Sussex and London. She explores themes such as nature, life, death, and artificiality through her work in sculpture, fashion, and prosthetics. Yaz graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2022 and has worked with well-known artists such as FKA Twigs, Bjork, and even Craig Green. Her work is stocked at Fantastic Toiles @fantastictoiles, a space that houses some of the finest talents in the world spanning across various mediums. What I love about Yaz’s work is how she blends different mediums and disciplines to create thought-provoking and captivating pieces.

Bailey N/A

Bailey N/A is another artist whose work is stocked at Fantastic Toiles. Bailey is a sculptor and fashion designer whose work explores themes of family, queer identity, and more. Bailey grew up in Portsmouth and graduated from Chelsea College of Art. Their work is deeply personal, and I find myself relating to it in a way that is hard to put into words. Bailey lost contact with their family after prolonged abuse, and their work reflects the complex emotions that come with such experiences.

Patch Futures

Patch Futures, also known as Ellis, is a patch maker and designer from Brighton but based in Lewisham who is also stocked at Fantastic Toiles. Ellis graduated from Fine Art at Goldsmiths University and works in photography, music, fashion, and more. What drew me to Ellis’ work is how unique it is. He has a distinct style that sets him apart from other designers, and his work in music is also worth checking out. I especially enjoyed his Turning Silver album under the Sirius moniker with his partner artist and musician Katie Mess.

Adam Poulter

Adam Poulter is a designer who explores themes of family and technology. His graduate collection effortlessly explored and blended masculinity and sensuality. His designs have caught my attention for their seamless blend of contrasting themes and elements. I find myself drawn to his use of fabrics and colours that evoke a sense of intimacy and vulnerability.

Charlie Constantinou

Charlie Constantinou is a Cypriot designer whose work is inventive and subversive. He was a semi-finalist in this year’s LVMH prize, and his designs look like they're straight out of a sci-fi movie. His use of futuristic elements and bold textures make his work stand out from the crowd. What’s even more impressive is that Charlie is only 24 years old but he has already collaborated with brands such as 66 North, and I can’t wait to see what else he has in store.

These are my 5 current favourite designers whose work spans different mediums and themes. From Yaz’s interdisciplinary approach to Bailey’s deeply personal work to Elliot’s unique style to Adam’s exploration of contrasting themes, to Charlie’s futuristic designs, each of these designers brings something unique to the table. I look forward to seeing how their work evolves and grows as they do in the future.

Ahluwalia FW23

 Ahluwalia, the London-based label founded by Nigerian-Indian designer Priya Ahluwalia, has gained a reputation for blending cultural and social influences with contemporary design aesthetics. The brand, launched in 2018, is known for its bold prints, vibrant colours, and sportswear-inspired pieces. The recently unveiled Ahluwalia FW23 collection, entitled ‘Symphony’, marks a departure from the brand’s past sportswear leanings, instead embracing a more formal and sophisticated approach.

Drawing inspiration from the music she grew up listening to, including 1990s hip-hop, Bollywood soundtracks, and artists such as Sade, Fela Kuti, Luther Vandross, and Lauryn Hill, the Symphony collection is a celebration of cultural diversity and music. As a fellow Indian, I can personally connect with the collection, as many of the designs incorporate traditional Indian elements, such as the shapes of ancient Indian guitars and traditional bead embroidery techniques.

The collection’s use of colour and print is incredible, with rich tones and bold patterns dominating many of the pieces. The collection’s first venture into footwear is also worth noting, as Ahluwalia has created a range of formal footwear for everyone, from heels and boots to lace-ups and loafers.

Album covers are also a recurring theme in the Symphony collection, with designs that feature musical graphics worked into the garments themselves. This gives the collection an almost nostalgic feel as if it’s paying homage to a bygone era of music and culture. The use of music and album covers is particularly striking in the context of a fashion collection, as it shows how different forms of art can blend together to create something entirely new and exciting.

Overall, the Ahluwalia FW23 Symphony collection is a stunning celebration of cultural diversity, music, and fashion. The collection’s fusion of Indian, Nigerian and Western styles, along with its use of colour, print, and music, creates a truly unique and memorable aesthetic. As an Ahluwalia enthusiast, I can’t wait to see what they have in store for future collections.

Chet Lo FW23

Fashion prodigy Chet Lo has presented his second collection after graduating from Fashion East. The young designer has impressed me once again with his unique vision, this time exploring the world of textures and materials to create a collection that is raw and seductive.

This collection has a significant difference from his previous work as it relies heavily on textures and materials rather than bright colours. Chet Lo played with denim and leather, venturing away from the spiky knits he is known for, showcasing his versatility.

What caught my attention was the lack of colour in the collection, which is a significant departure from his previous work. The colour palette was inspired by Chet Lo's recent depression diagnosis. The designer himself has stated that the collection is a personal exploration of his emotions, and the lack of colour in his work reflects this.

The collection is a journey of exploration, which highlights the designer's growth and transformation. It shows that even in the darkest moments of one's life, one can find inspiration and creativity, especially in nature. The collection's pieces are thought-provoking and show a sense of maturity in the designer's work.

As a fan of Chet Lo, it was hard not to have favourites, and mine were looks 6, and 10: 

Chet Lo's FW2023 collection is a unique and captivating journey through depression. The lack of colour and the use of textures show the designer's growth and transformation, making it a collection that is both personal and thought-provoking. Chet Lo has a talent for making menswear that is almost seductive and shows skin without taking away from the subject's masculinity, similar to Kiko Kostadinov in a way. I am certainly excited to see where his journey takes him next.