Ahluwalia FW23

 Ahluwalia, the London-based label founded by Nigerian-Indian designer Priya Ahluwalia, has gained a reputation for blending cultural and social influences with contemporary design aesthetics. The brand, launched in 2018, is known for its bold prints, vibrant colours, and sportswear-inspired pieces. The recently unveiled Ahluwalia FW23 collection, entitled ‘Symphony’, marks a departure from the brand’s past sportswear leanings, instead embracing a more formal and sophisticated approach.

Drawing inspiration from the music she grew up listening to, including 1990s hip-hop, Bollywood soundtracks, and artists such as Sade, Fela Kuti, Luther Vandross, and Lauryn Hill, the Symphony collection is a celebration of cultural diversity and music. As a fellow Indian, I can personally connect with the collection, as many of the designs incorporate traditional Indian elements, such as the shapes of ancient Indian guitars and traditional bead embroidery techniques.

The collection’s use of colour and print is incredible, with rich tones and bold patterns dominating many of the pieces. The collection’s first venture into footwear is also worth noting, as Ahluwalia has created a range of formal footwear for everyone, from heels and boots to lace-ups and loafers.

Album covers are also a recurring theme in the Symphony collection, with designs that feature musical graphics worked into the garments themselves. This gives the collection an almost nostalgic feel as if it’s paying homage to a bygone era of music and culture. The use of music and album covers is particularly striking in the context of a fashion collection, as it shows how different forms of art can blend together to create something entirely new and exciting.

Overall, the Ahluwalia FW23 Symphony collection is a stunning celebration of cultural diversity, music, and fashion. The collection’s fusion of Indian, Nigerian and Western styles, along with its use of colour, print, and music, creates a truly unique and memorable aesthetic. As an Ahluwalia enthusiast, I can’t wait to see what they have in store for future collections.

Chet Lo FW23

Fashion prodigy Chet Lo has presented his second collection after graduating from Fashion East. The young designer has impressed me once again with his unique vision, this time exploring the world of textures and materials to create a collection that is raw and seductive.

This collection has a significant difference from his previous work as it relies heavily on textures and materials rather than bright colours. Chet Lo played with denim and leather, venturing away from the spiky knits he is known for, showcasing his versatility.

What caught my attention was the lack of colour in the collection, which is a significant departure from his previous work. The colour palette was inspired by Chet Lo's recent depression diagnosis. The designer himself has stated that the collection is a personal exploration of his emotions, and the lack of colour in his work reflects this.

The collection is a journey of exploration, which highlights the designer's growth and transformation. It shows that even in the darkest moments of one's life, one can find inspiration and creativity, especially in nature. The collection's pieces are thought-provoking and show a sense of maturity in the designer's work.

As a fan of Chet Lo, it was hard not to have favourites, and mine were looks 6, and 10: 

Chet Lo's FW2023 collection is a unique and captivating journey through depression. The lack of colour and the use of textures show the designer's growth and transformation, making it a collection that is both personal and thought-provoking. Chet Lo has a talent for making menswear that is almost seductive and shows skin without taking away from the subject's masculinity, similar to Kiko Kostadinov in a way. I am certainly excited to see where his journey takes him next.

Discover Ambush's Latest Fall/Winter Collection Inspired by Japanese Uniforms

In 2008, YOON and Verbal founded Ambush, and they quickly made a name for themselves with collaborations with popular brands like BAPE and Reebok. Over the years, they have expanded their offerings, and in 2015, they started making clothes.

Fast forward to 2023, Ambush is back with its Fall/Winter ready-to-wear collection. The brand's latest offering draws inspiration from Japanese uniforms, which is evident in the collection's heavy use of belts.

Another thing that stands out about the collection is the wide range of styles it offers. From tactical to formal, there is something for everyone. The collection features beanies, fur coats, blazers, and even dresses.

The use of New Rocks footwear adds an edgy touch to the collection. New Rocks is a British brand that has previously worked with brands like Balenciaga and Vetements. The footwear adds to the overall aesthetic of the collection and is a perfect addition to the clothing.

Ambush's latest collection is a must-see and certainly one of my favourites from LFW so far.

Simone Rocha FW23: Harvesting Creativity

I am excited to discuss the latest collection from Simone Rocha, which was showcased at London Fashion Week. Simone Rocha, the creative director, and founder of her namesake label is from Dublin but is based in East London. Her penchant for fashion dates back to her teenage years when she worked at her father's fashion studio. Rocha then went on to train at the National College of Art and Design and Central Saint Martins, which led to her establishing her brand.

The FW23 collection is the brand's second menswear collection, and it is nothing short of intricate and elegant. It evokes a sense of fantasy and magic, reminiscent of a novel such as Picnic at Hanging Rock. The brand has always been inclusive and gender-neutral, and this is even more evident with the inclusion of menswear in their latest collections.

This collection was inspired by Lughnasadh, an ancient Gaelic festival marking the beginning of the harvest season. The incorporation of this theme is a testament to Rocha's cultural heritage and serves as a nod to her roots.

As someone who has been a fan of Simone Rocha for some time now, I am delighted to see her continue to evolve. Dover Street Market, my favourite shop, was the first to stock her brand, and they continue to do so to this day.

This collection has left me in awe, and I am hoping to save up for one of her pieces soon. With intricate designs and a unique perspective, Simone Rocha has once again created a collection that is sure to leave a lasting impression. Overall, the FW23 collection is a work of art that showcases Rocha's talent and creativity, and I cannot wait to see what she has in store for us next.

Mowalola Ogunlesi Scores Big at London Fashion Week with FW23 Collection

Mowalola Ogunlesi's FW23 Ready-to-Wear collection was a showstopper at this year's London Fashion Week. As the creative director and founder of Mowalola, Ogunlesi has been making waves in the fashion industry with her unique designs and bold fashion statements.

Born in Nigeria and based in London, Ogunlesi's work is a reflection of her diverse cultural background. She is certainly no stranger to the fashion industry, she was previously the creative director at Yeezy GAP and designed outfits for Skepta and the Nigerian World Cup kit.

This year's collection was inspired by New York and featured witty MoMA, Yankees, and NBA bootlegs. Gen Z streetwear enthusiasts are sure to love the bootlegs trend, which has been gaining popularity among them in the past year or so, particularly in footwear.

One of the standout moments of the show was when the eighth model, Ola Ula Slawn, walked down the runway with his baby. Both Slawn and his baby are Nigerian, and he is well known for his witty and playful artwork and streetwear collaborations with brands like Corteiz.

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The clothes themselves were oversized and featured a lot of sagging, showing off legs above the trousers. This daring look is sure to draw stares, for better or worse. 

As a fan of the collection, my personal favourites were looks 2 and 4 (see below).

Overall, Mowalola's FW23 Ready-to-Wear collection was a testament to Ogunlesi's bold vision and creativity. It's clear that she is one to watch in the world of fashion, and I can't wait to see what she has in store for us in the future. Hopefully next time I'll be able to attend the show in person.

View the rest of the collection here

Follow Mowalola on Instagram here

LVMH Prize Semi-finalists 2023

 This year marks the tenth anniversary of the LVMH Prize, one of the most prestigious fashion awards in the world. The LVMH Prize is open to any designer under 40 who has created at least two collections. The winner of the LVMH Prize receives €300,000 and mentorship from LVMH teams, which is an excellent opportunity for any aspiring fashion designer. Previous winners of the LVMH Prize include Hood By Air, Jacquemus, and one of my favorite designers, Grace Wales Bonner.

The LVMH Prize is always exciting, and this year's semifinalists are no exception. The list includes Aaron Esh, Anne Isabella, Bettter, Bloke, Burc Akyol, Charlie Constantinou, Diotima, Joao Maraschin, Johanna Parv, Juntae Kim, Karu Research, Kusikohc, Louis Shengtao Chen, Luar, Magliano, Marrknull, Namesake, Paolina Russo, Quira, Setchu, Stinarand, and Wataru Tominaga.

Although there are many deserving designers in the running, I am rooting for Charlie Constantinou or Aaron Esh to take it home. Aaron Esh's work proposes a modern masculinity defined by romance, love, and chic. It is unique and thought-provoking. Aaron Esh has already won a scholarship from Alexander McQueen to complete his MA at Central Saint Martins.

On the other hand, Charlie Constantinou is incredibly inventive and subversive. As a fellow Cypriot, I feel a personal connection to his work. His designs look like they're straight out of a sci-fi movie. His use of futuristic elements and bold textures make his work stand out from the crowd. I would love to see Charlie Constantinou win the LVMH Prize, as it would be a well-deserved recognition of his talent and creativity.

The LVMH Prize is an excellent opportunity for emerging fashion designers to showcase their talent and gain recognition in the industry and I cannot wait to see who will take home the prize this year.

"Fall Head Over Heels for Murkage Dave's Sweet & Soulful Valentine's Day Compilation"

Valentine’s Day was made extra special this year with Murkage Dave’s “I Don’t Do Love Songs - A Valentines Compilation” project. The Leytonstone-born singer-songwriter has been on my radar for a while now, and this latest offering has cemented his place as one of my favourite artists.

The compilation consists of both new and old tracks, with each song showcasing Murkage Dave’s undeniable talent. I first discovered him at the release party for Manga Saint Hilare’s “Run For Your Life” album, where he delivered a captivating performance that left me wanting more.

One of the standout tracks on the project is “Put You on My Shoulders,” a sweet and tender love song that highlights Murkage Dave’s emotive voice. The stripped-back version of the track, which omits the Frankie Stew and Harvey Gunn feature, places the spotlight solely on his vocals and allows the listener to fully appreciate his storytelling ability.

Another standout track is “Big Man But I’m Shy,” which features one of my all-time favourite artists, Manga Saint Hilare. The song’s infectious beat had me dancing in my room, and Manga’s flow brought a calm and suave energy that perfectly complemented Murkage Dave’s vocals. Together, the two artists created a synergy that is hard to find in today’s music scene.

The project also features mysterious artist Mysterious Beanie on the song “I Had A Nice Time But I Won’t Be Back.” Her calming and ethereal voice perfectly complements Murkage Dave’s smooth and soulful vocals, and it is a shame that she only has a handful of songs.

Overall, Murkage Dave’s “I Don’t Do Love Songs - A Valentines Compilation” is a must-listen for fans of soulful singing and heartfelt storytelling. Murkage Dave’s voice is comforting and his ability to paint vivid pictures through his lyrics is truly impressive. I can’t wait to see what he has coming in the future.

From Virgil to Pharrell - A Step in The Right Direction?

 In recent news, Louis Vuitton has annoucned that they will be hiring Pharrell Williams as the next Mens Artistic Director following the passing of Virgil Abloh in November 2021. Virgil was instrumental in blurring the lines between high fashion and streetwear and he was the first black American to be a head designer at a European Luxury House. While I may have preferred other designers such as Martine Rose or Grace Wales Bonner to take over, Pharrell's appointment will certainly bring a new level of excitement to the brand, especially with today’s youth.

Pharrell Williams is no stranger to the fashion industry. In the early 2000s, he teamed up with Nigo, founder of Bape and current creative director of Kenzo, to start their own brand called Billionaire Boys Club. He has also worked with brands such as Diesel, Chanel, and has ongoing collaborations with Adidas. In 2008, he even teamed up with the Marc Jacobs-era Louis Vuitton to create a line of sunglasses. With 2 Oscar nominations and 13 Grammy Awards under his belt, Pharrell is a multi-talented artist who has proven his ability to succeed in various creative industries.

While some may have had other designers in mind for the position, there is no denying that Pharrell's appointment will bring a fresh perspective to the brand. Louis Vuitton has a long history of collaborating with artists and musicians, especially during Virgil’s time and Pharrell is an excellent addition to that list.

Grime Kids, the TV show

Grime music has taken the world by storm over the past decade and its origins can be traced back to humble East London. One of the pioneers of the grime movement is none other than world-renowned DJ Target, a man who has been at the forefront of the genre for the past twenty years. Raised in East London, Target was a member of the Pay As U Go garage collective and legendary Roll Deep grime crew and has been documenting his journey in music and the rise of grime for years.

Five years ago, this documentation took the form of a book, "Grime Kids," which became a best-seller, reaching number one in five different categories. The book details DJ Target's journey from a young aspiring DJ to a seasoned veteran and gives readers a unique perspective of the grime scene.

DJ Target's story has now been picked up by Mammoth Screen, who have decided to adapt the book into a TV series. The script has been written by Theresa Ikoko, who has expertly adapted the book for the screen, bringing DJ Target's story to life. Filming has now finished and the TV show is set to reach our screens this summer.

This TV series will give audiences a glimpse into the early days of grime and the community that helped to shape the genre. DJ Target's story is an inspiring one and the TV show promises to be an insightful journey through the rise of grime. From the basements of East London to the world stage, this is a story that needs to be told.

For fans of grime music and anyone who is interested in the genre, this TV series is a must-watch. Whether you're a seasoned grime fan or being forced by your kids to give it a go, this TV show will give you an inside look at the rise of grime and the musicians who helped to shape the genre.

So, get ready for an incredible journey through the rise of grime with DJ Target and the Grime Kids TV show, releasing this summer!

Supreme SS23

Supreme Spring Summer 2023 Collection is Here and It's a Must-Have!

Supreme's Spring Summer 2023 collection is finally here and it's not just any regular collection. This time around, the current creative director, Tremaine Emory has taken things to the next level with potentially his best collection yet.

Emory has done an exceptional job in bringing together a collection that is both stylish and functional. One of the standouts of the collection is the knitwear. The knitwear comes in a range of colours, from bold and eye-catching to timid and subtle, making it easy to find a piece that suits your style.

The collection's first drop will be on February 16th, and it's not one to be missed. One of the standouts from the collection is the Kurt Cobain-inspired jumper. This piece pays homage to the style and music icon, who was known for his unique and trailblazing fashion sense. The jumper is a must-have for anyone who wants to show off their love for Kurt Cobain and his impact on fashion and contemporary rock.

My favourite look from the collection is the suit. It's simple and elegant, with a nice baggy fit that makes it perfect for wearing no matter how formal the function is. Whether you're heading to the office or out for a night on the town, this suit is sure to turn heads.

Supreme's Spring Summer 2023 collection is one that you won't want to miss. From the Kurt Cobain jumper to the beautiful knitwear, there's something for everyone. make sure to set a reminder for February 16th and be ready to receive a call from your bank. Trust me, you won't regret it!